Newland was fully built up by 1870. Small chairmaking workshops were either becoming, or being replaced by, larger factories. The area was congested, diseased and it flooded regularly.
Although the pubs were in their heyday there were too many of them while the older buildings needed work. Beerhouse licensing had come into magistrates’ control in 1869, and another licensing act of 1872 indicated government policy was focused on reducing the numbers of pubs. After much lobbying, the breweries succeeded in getting legislation passed in 1904 that would pay them and their tenants compensation for the loss of licences.
All Newland’s pubs were, by the end of the 1880s, tied to a brewery either by direct ownership or through a lease. The Rose was tied to the Parsons brewery of Princes Risborough by 1871, the Elephant & Castle was bought at auction by Wheeler’s in 1875, who then bought the Victoria (18) by 1883, Williams of Wooburn was leasing the Royal Oak (13) in 1877 (purchasing it in 1888) and the Frogmoor brewery was leasing the Roundabout by 1888.
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| Although the subject of this photograph is clearly Doris’ florists, it also shows the Royal Oak to the left c1935 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by High Wycombe Library) |
The majority of the licensees now worked hard to attract clubs, societies, organisations, entertainments and sports. Almost every pub had a slate club – these were Christmas and sick pay savings clubs. Football clubs used pubs as their club houses – the West End Recreation Ground was behind West End Road. In the early 20th century the Spread Eagle had Wycombe Phoenix, the Wheel West End Rangers and West End Norfolkians, the Elephant & Castle Wycombe Generals and the Black Swan Wycombe Rovers.
One of the hardest working publicans was Harry Rolfe of the Golden Fleece (8). This pub had become a rough house in the 1880s seeing many landlords come and go. Rolfe, vice-chairman of High Wycombe’s Licensed Victuallers’ Association, took over in 1893 put on dinners, oversaw a slate club, had West End Star Cricket Club use it as their home and hosted a quoits tournament on his private ground. He also hosted a mock council meeting to discuss the issues facing the area.
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| The Golden Fleece is sandwiched between the gasworks on the left and Newland Cottage on the right in the late 1950s (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by High Wycombe Library) |
The Golden Fleece on 9 November 1899 became, for a night, the Guildhall to elect a Mayor and ‘Corporation for the West End’. Although this long-running event was an entertainment it had serious underlying concerns. The meeting elected all the officials the Wycombe Borough and Corporation would and then discussed the ‘Wants of the Ward’, such as the widening of Desborough Road: if the Corporation did not remove the old cottages they would fall down on their own and a mud scraper should be employed as the road was ankle deep in mud. Of course, the meeting ended with a banquet, cigars and singing.
The 1890s saw brewers looking to alter, rebuild or take their licences elsewhere. 1891 saw the Victoria extended into the property next door. In 1897 Wheeler’s brewery proposed removing the licence of the oldest of Newland’s pubs, the Wheel, to a new pub on Desborough Road, which the magistrates rejected, and they rejected the proposal again in 1898.
The much-discussed widening of Desborough Road had seen proposals for the Rose & Crown (11) to be knocked down and rebuilt further back from the road that was only 13 feet wide at the junction with Mendy Street. The magistrates gave provisional approval in 1892 to move the licence from the original pub building to a new one. The Golden Fleece Guildhall event satirised the road widening in 1899 as it had only just begun after a seven-year delay. The new Rose & Crown (designed by Thomas Thurlow) opened in 1901. There must have been a change of plan in the Borough office as the ‘old’ pub building was not demolished for road widening after all.
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| This curious wide-angle view of the junction of Mendy Street with Desborough Road shows the Rose & Crown c1955 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by High Wycombe Library) |
Drainage in Newland had been a major issue since the 1870s. Richard Reeves – landlord of the Black Swan – had complained bitterly to the South Bucks Free Press in July 1882 about the ‘foul and filthy ditch’ that runs the length of Newland, ignored by the Borough surveyor, that must surely be a health hazard. Reeves died two years later aged only 42.
Many of Newland’s properties had only a ‘privy’ flowing into an open ditch until the 1890s. Many of the pubs were no exception. As late as 1896 the Roundabout’s drains were relaid, and in 1897 Wethered’s put in a WC and urinal in the Rose.
The cull of 1903
When the licensing magistrates refused to renew a pub’s licence the business came to an end. Although there had long been an argument (mainly by brewers) that compensation should be paid to owners and tenants of pubs that were refused a licence, it was not until 1904 that a system of compensation was introduced by Arthur Balfour’s Conservative government.
The number of licences not renewed nationally was 1,105 in 1903, and Wycombe was no exception. However, local brewers got together to draw up a list of 12 pubs the licences for which they would be prepared to surrender. The local licensing magistrates accepted the list.
The cull of 1903 took the Wheel (1) and several other pubs in Newland. The building was put up for auction, but did not sell. The last we hear of it is in 1920 when it is advertised for sale, though the building is likely to have been demolished in the clearances of 1935, if not before.
The Elephant & Castle (2) was closed and a Mr E Milner of the Oxford Road bought the building in a private sale after it failed to reach its reserve price at auction. The building survived, finally as a cafe, until the late 1960s when it would have been demolished for the Octagon.
Two of the pubs in Newland Meadow were also victims of the 1903 cull: the Chair Van and the World’s End.
The Chair Van (10) was typical of properties in the area by the late 19th century. Drainage in the water meadows had been an issue since the houses were built and flooding was a regular occurrence. The foundations were unlikely to have been deep and many houses lacked suitable sanitation by the turn of the 20th century. The Borough Public Works Committee report of January 1903 required Wheeler’s to improve the toilets and, if they didn’t act within a month, the Borough would do the work and send the bill to the brewery. This issue almost certainly led Wheeler’s to offer to surrender the licence. At auction it was sold for £250.
The World’s End (17) belonged to the Parsons brewery of Princes Risborough until 1900 when they sold their business to the Welch Ale Brewery of south London. The pub remained a beerhouse throughout its life, with the Cheese family as licensees for all of its final 24 years.
1903 wasn’t all about closures. The Plough, now owned by Brakspear of Henley, was altered, while the Presbyterian Trustees who owned the Mason’s Arms (5) considered selling the pub, presumably to Wheeler’s, who became the eventual owners.
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| The destruction of the Black Swan in April 1905 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by Bucks Free Press) |
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| The funeral procession for the victims of the Black Swan fire heads to Tylers Green down Oxford Street on 7 April 1905 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by Bucks Free Press) |
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| The former Spread Eagle, now with the sign of St Paul’s Mission, looking towards Newland Bridge and demolition in 1935 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by High Wycombe Library) |
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| The former Black Swan in the process of being demolished (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by High Wycombe Library) |
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| The new Roundabout, now further up Bridge Street c1960 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by Wycombe Museum) |
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| The Jolly Butcher, having briefly found life as the Newland Boot Repairing Depot, awaits demolition in 1935 (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by High Wycombe Library) |
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| The rebuilt Rose of 1934 pictured in the 1960s. The original pub was a cottage attached to the pair on the left (courtesy of SWOP, copyright managed by Wycombe Museum) |

























